Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring: Top 10 Tips To Choose
Image via David Yurman - Capri Engagement Ring in Platinum Asscher cut diamond

Are you ready to take the plunge and propose with an asscher cut engagement ring? This is your chance to get it absolutely, totally right. If you're looking for something that will make your fiancée's heart melt and show her just how much you care about her, an asscher cut diamond engagement ring might be just what you need.

The asscher cut is the perfect style for any woman who loves fashion. This particular style has been worn by celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor, Pippa Middleton, Gwyneth Paltrow, and others. Taylor's 33.19-carat stunner, which is the famous Krupp diamond, has adorned her finger for decades. 

The krupp diamond elizabeth taylor

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If you're looking to make an everlasting statement with your engagement ring, this is the one. It shows a classic style with the perfect amount of light and shine. Its timeless design not only looks good today, but it will still look good in fifty years! 

Adorned With Asscher: History of the Beautiful Diamond Cut

Josheph asscher and the asscher building in holland

The history of the beautiful asscher cut diamond is a fascinating one. The story begins in the early 1900s when Dutch diamond cutters Joseph Asscher and his brother invented the cut. The style reached its peak popularity in the Art Deco period between the 1920s and 1930s. That period saw this stone come into its own with some of the most exquisite pieces created at that time.

The original asscher cut has 58 facets. Since the Asscher family does not have the patent of this cut, any jeweler can reproduce it. However, asscher diamonds still don't flood the market because of their complicated design. 

Aphrodite Asscher Cut Engagement Ring set with round brilliant diamonds and halo
Image via 77Diamonds

Like every vintage fad, the asscher cut also saw its modern revival in 2002 on its 100th anniversary. Part of the popularity should be credited to the Royal Asscher, a mod of the original design with 16 more facets. The Royal Asscher Diamond Company has the patent of this rare and beautiful cut.

According to the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), the asscher cut's actual name is square emerald cut and it's sometimes referred to as the step cut. However, people all over the world know this cut by the name of its creators — the Asscher brothers. 

Today, this fashionable gemstone is still popular among jewelers because of its durability and rarity — only about 2% of diamonds are considered asscher.

All the Ways Asscher Cut Engagement Rings Are Unique

Art deco inspired asscher cut tanzanite and diamond ring

Image via Yael

The asscher cut diamond, with its octagonal shape and square table, is a beautiful option for those interested in an aesthetically pleasing and unique look. It has some distinct traits that make it original from other cuts. 

They have some unique features, such as their intricate designs and patterns, which make them stand apart from other types like round brilliant or princess cuts. Asscher cut diamonds don't show much brilliance but they just give off an aura of beauty!


Asscher Cut Engagement Ring
Image by Superstar via Shutterstock

The design of asscher cut diamonds sets them apart from other diamond cuts. Featuring an octagonal-square shape, they display layered facets on the background of a high crown and deep pavilion. The look is simple but elegant.

The symmetry of the patterns is the main asset of this cut. From each corner facets run from the top to the bottom in a stair pattern. Looking from the top, the patterns look like a windmill since the steps become gradually smaller before meeting at the culet.

Asscher Cut Engagement Ring: Geometrical Symmetry

Asscher eternity diamond ring shared prongs

Image via Brilliant Earth

A strong feature of the asscher cut is its balanced geometrical symmetry. Because of its strong ties to the Art Deco style, which underscores the visual beauty of simple but streamlined and geometric patterns, all faceted patterns in the asscher cut are highly symmetrical. 


The asscher cut is a variant of the square cut with an octagonal twist. With equal length and width, the diamond shape is originally square but the angled corners create the visual impression of an octagon. The result is a beautiful, clean-edged stone that catches the light beautifully.

Its unique shape places it somewhere between a round cut and a perfect-square princess cut. It can easily be a substitute for a round or square radiant cut diamond for those who prefer the more classic diamond shapes. However, it does not have the brilliance of the brilliant and radiant cuts. 

Number of Facets

Asscher cut diamond engagement ring
Image via De Beers

Original asscher cut diamonds have 58 facets, similar to a round brilliant. However, they are still not the same because the arrangement of the facets is quite different. The facet pattern in an asscher cut gives off a vintage vibe by creating a "hall of mirrors" look.

The royal asscher cut has a total of 74 facets, which is a later invention by the Asscher company. Having more facets means it gives off a better brilliance than the original cut. 


Despite having plenty of facets, the asscher cut does not have a brilliance better than many other cuts like the round brilliant, cushion, and princess cuts. The horizontal step-like facets of the asscher don't refract much light, reducing the scintillation. 


Which Bridal Style is Complementary to the Asscher Cut Engagement Ring?

Capri engagement ring in platinum asscher cut diamond

Image via David Yurman

There are so many beautiful bridal styles to choose from these days, but not all of them complement the asscher cut diamond. 

The asscher cut diamond is a vintage style that takes inspiration from the art deco era. It's a stunning and sleek cut with moderate sparkle, which gives it a clean look. This feature makes it complementary for any bride looking for a vintage take on her engagement ring.

Polished with a vintage feel, these diamonds have been widely embraced by brides looking for that old-world touch. What's not to love about the cut that has embraced contemporary styles like geometric facets and an octagonal shape?

Vintage asscher cut diamond ring: Asscher Cut Engagement Ring
Image via Eragem

The square shape with a windmill pavilion gives off a classic and timeless feel. Its gorgeous and unique look sets the bride apart from the rest. 

The classic and timeless style of vintage jewelry has been trending for years now. A design that was popular in the 1920s, 30s, and 40s is still as popular today as it was then. You can never go wrong with wearing a vintage-inspired piece.

Vintage-style weddings combine elegance, simplicity, and tradition with details like lace, pearls, and tulle to create beautiful aesthetics for both guests and the bride.

Asscher Cut vs Princess Cut: Key Differences

Asscher cut and princess cut diamond

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Since both cuts have a square design, you can use them on similar ring settings. However, they still hold some key differences: 


Both cuts are available in square shape but their corner design is different from each other. The asscher cut has truncated corners that create an octagonal shape, while the sharp corners of the princess cut keep it a perfect square. Although the corners of a princess cut diamond are vulnerable to easy damage.


Asscher cut vs princess cut diamond

Princess cut diamonds are a variation of the brilliant cut, so they have more brilliance and fire than the asscher diamonds.  


If you consider carat to carat, asscher diamonds are more budget-friendly. However, since these diamonds show more inclusions, you have to go for a higher clarity grade for an eye-clean stone, which increases the price. 

On the other hand, princess diamonds are good with cloaking imperfections and shades of colors. So, you can choose a lower clarity and color grade to save a good amount of money. 

Asscher Cut Engagement Ring vs Cushion Cut Engagement Ring: How Do They Differ?

Asscher cut and cushion cut diamond

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Considering price and cut style, asscher and cushion cut diamonds are almost similar. Both are square-shaped (cushion cut can be rectangular though) and much cheaper than any round brilliant cut diamond. Let's see how they differ from each other:


Both cuts are predominantly square with the cushion cut being available in a rectangular shape too. However, the difference between them lies in the design of the corners. 

Cushion cut diamonds have round corners, while asscher cut diamonds have cropped four corners, which make them look like an octagon. 


Asscher cut vs cushion cut diamond

Cushion diamonds are derived from the brilliant cut but they don't have the brilliance and scintillation of round brilliant diamonds. In fact, the asscher diamonds display slightly more brilliance because their rate of white light reflection is better. The rate of colored light reflection of cushion diamonds is better, which means they show more fire and sparkle 


Considering the price, cushion diamonds are slightly more budget-friendly. Asscher diamonds tend to cost more because of their rarity. 

Asscher Cut Engagement Ring vs Emerald Cut: the Points of Differences

Asscher cut and emerald cut diamond

Image via Adiamor

A diamond's cut can make or break a piece of jewelry and determine its look, color, and clarity. Although both asscher and emerald are variations of the step cut, they are still different in terms of shape, sparkle, and price. 


Asscher diamonds are exclusively square with almost similar length and width. However, because of the truncated corners, they look octagonal. Emerald cuts, on the other hand, are rectangular with an elongated shape. 

Because of this shape variation, a same-carat emerald looks larger than an asscher diamond. However, the perceived bigger dimension does not add to the value of an emerald cut diamond.  


Asscher cut vs emerald cut diamond

Step cut variations are not known for their sparkle because of having a shallow crown and pavilion. The diamonds rather have better clarity and luster than the brilliant cut stones. 

However, asscher cut diamonds still display more sparkle than emerald cuts. The latter type has better clarity, showing imperfections quite easily. 


The price of these cuts are almost similar but you may have to spend more for a Royal asscher cut diamond. Otherwise, both styles are available at a price much lower than the round brilliant. 

Whats the Best Color Grade for an Asscher Cut Diamond?

Petite elodie engagement ring asscher diamond cut

Image via Brilliant Earth

Asscher diamonds are less expensive than brilliant cut diamonds but the price gap does not save you much because of these stones' incapability to hide inclusions and tints. You have to choose higher color and clarity grades that eventually close the price gap.

So, which color grade should you choose?

Well, the deep pavilion of an asscher diamond highlights the color. Since the light has a wider surface to pass through, choosing a lower grade will make the yellowish tint highly visible. 

Nadia asscher cut diamond engagement ring

Image via Brilliant Earth

Choose at least the H color grade and the stone will show only a faint yellowish tint. If you are planning to set the diamond on a platinum or gold band, go for the G or higher grade. 

However, a high grade also increases the price rapidly, which may not offer the best value for money. It will be better to stick to an I or H grade since a slightly warm tone looks good on the asscher cut.  

Which Clarity Grade is Right for an Asscher Cut Diamond Engagement Ring?

Asscher cut diamond 3 stone engagement ring

Image via Macys

Because of having a large table, asscher diamonds show inclusions pretty easily. To have an eye-clean stone, you have to choose at least the VS2 clarity grade. If you want to save some money with a lower clarity grade, such as SI1 or SI2, make sure that the blemishes are far from the main table. Otherwise, the inclusions will be highly visible to anyone who cares to look. 

If you are lucky enough, you may find an SI1-grade stone with an eye-clean appearance. In that case, the tints are actually hidden below the step-like facets. But finding such a stone is quite difficult. So, your best bet is to pay for a diamond with VS2 clarity

Choosing the Best Depth and Table for the Asscher Diamond Cut

Reina asscher cut diamond engagement ring

Image via Brilliant Earth

The depth is much more important for brilliant cut diamonds because it determines the refraction of light. Since asscher cut diamonds don't rely on brilliance, there is no need to maintain the depth. 

So, choose the depth as low as possible because a shallow surface means the diamond will look bigger. Since asscher diamonds look smaller than their weight because of the long pavilion, a lower depth will regain some of that weight. 

You will get the best appearance and value for carat weight by choosing a stone with a depth between 60% and 68% and a table between 60% and 69%. A stone with a depth below 65% is rare but it will still be a good purchase if it's around 60%. 


Pros and Cons of the Asscher Cut Engagement Ring

Asscher cut diamond engagement ring

Image via De Beers

The design of an asscher cut is unique and elegant yet it might not be for everyone. Let's take a look at some of the pros and cons of these precious stones, so you can make an informed decision when shopping.

Pros of Asscher Cut Engagement Ring

Tsarina asscher diamond with channel set round brilliant diamonds

Image via 77Diamonds

Distinct Design

Asscher cut diamonds are extremely eye-catching and beautiful. The square shape gives them a clean, elegant appearance, while the angles make them perfect for reflecting light.

Its symmetry and clean look are appealing to many people who are seeking a simple but elegant ring. Moderate sparkle and large flashes, thanks to the long facets, draw attention to this stunning gemstone.

Vintage Appeal

The asscher cut diamond is an ideal choice for those looking for a vintage-inspired engagement ring. The design dates back to the artistic style of the Art Deco era. The geometric shape of the asscher cut, along with its glassy shine, reflects this nostalgic aesthetic. It has an allure that can be traced back to that time and captures attention with its vivid flashes of brilliance.

Brightest of All Step Cuts

Asscher cut diamonds are known for their larger flashes of brilliance to make them the brightest of all step-cut diamonds. Step cuts are not known for their sparkle but the asscher still manages to produce some because of its long, rectangular facets. 

Better for Clarity Sparkle

The sparkle of an asscher cut diamond is unlike any other. If well-cut, the high crown stone creates vibrant flashes of light, which produce a fascinating hall-of-mirrors effect that's captivating to behold. It's no wonder why it is highly popular among engagement ring customers.

Cons of Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cut swiss blue topaz and diamond tri top stud earrings

Image by Zales

Less Sparkle

Asscher cut diamonds have a fire but don't sparkle as much as round brilliant, cushion, or oval cut diamonds. In fact, the sparkle is underwhelming than a triangle cut diamond too. Less sparkle is not necessarily a bad thing, though. For some ladies, too much fire and sparkle may be too overwhelming. Also, the sparkle is way better than rose cut diamonds

Rare to Find

If you're in the market for an Asscher cut diamond, you should know that less than 2% of all diamonds are cut into this shape. This means that picking out the perfect one with the right carat, quality, and price can be expensive and time-consuming.

Hard to Carve a Perfect Symmetry

A well-cut asscher diamond should have perfect symmetry. Four rows of facets from four corners should taper across the pavilion to kiss at the culet. However, carving so many facets at such a geometrical pattern makes room for mistakes. So, it's hard to find an asscher cut diamond that displays a windmill pattern from the top view. 

Look Smaller

These diamonds have more depth compared to their width. Jewelers try to make them as deep as possible to increase the value. But it also means so much carat is going into the diamond that you can't see. For a similar weight, an asscher diamond will look smaller than a round brilliant. 


Despite having muted brilliance and looking smaller than their cataract weight, asscher diamonds are costly. They cost more than the cushion, radiant, and the highly popular pear cut diamonds. It's because these diamonds are rare and it's complicated to cut their facets into perfection. 

Whats the Price of a 2-Carat Asscher Cut Engagement Ring?

Asscher diamond cut solitaire engagement ring

Image via Taylor and Hart

Like all other diamond cuts, the price of an asscher cut diamond also depends on its color, clarity, weight, and cut quality. Another factor that adds to asscher's price is its rarity. 

For VS2 clarity and G-H color grade, the price of a 2-carat asscher cut will be around $15,000. The price could be more for a higher grade of color and clarity. Adding more diamonds or other gemstones to the ring's band will also increase the price. 

Whats Your Style? the Best Settings for Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

When selecting a diamond for your engagement ring, it is crucial to understand the gemstone and cut combination that will lead to the best appearance and durability. The setting for an asscher ring should complement the diamond's shape to make it look more beautiful. 

Try the following options to see which one suits you the best:

Kite Setting

Asscher cut diamond kite setting

Image via Adiamor

The kite setting is a popular option for asscher cut rings or any square-shaped diamonds to give them an interesting look. It has four prongs in four directions, making the asscher diamond turn on its axis. To add more sparkle, you can pair it with small diamonds on the band.

Bezel Setting

Asscher cut diamond bezel setting

Image via Adiamor

The metal rim of the setting frames the diamond well and catches the light beautifully! It's also the most secure option for keeping your stone in place because it holds everything tightly inside. A bezel works nicely for solitaires too.

Half Bezel Setting

Half bezel asscher cut diamond engagement ring

Image via Good Earth

The setting gives a modern twist to the vintage asscher diamonds. The half-bezel is similar to a full bezel, but it only surrounds the diamond partially. This looks especially good with an asscher cut because the diamond looks like it's floating on top of your hand and you can see most of its beautiful facets. You might also like this setting if you like an open band.

Asscher Cut Engagement Rings: Three-Stone Setting

Asscher cut 3 stones setting diamond engagement ring

Image via Eb Horn

Two smaller stones on the sides will nicely highlight the asscher diamond in the middle. The shape of these two stones could be different from the center diamond. A ring with three stones looks very classy and sophisticated. 

Two-Stone Setting

2 stones setting asscher cut diamond engagement ring

Image via Fascinating Diamonds

Two-stone rings are a new trend in the world of diamond engagement rings. Instead of one huge central stone, this setting holds two same size stones in the middle. Or, you can create visual interest by keeping one slightly smaller than the other. 

The beauty of this jewelry piece lies in its simplicity. Keep the band absolutely bare, so there's nothing to distract from the beauty of your asscher diamonds.

FAQS About Asscher Diamonds and Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

Asscher cut shared prong diamond eternity band

Image via Debians

Q. Is the Asscher Cut More Expensive Than Emerald?

A. Regarding quality, asscher and emerald cut diamonds are almost similar. However, asscher diamonds are still pricier because of their rarity. Less than 2% of diamonds are asscher and finding a well-cut stone is quite challenging. 

Q. Do Asscher Cut Diamonds Sparkle?

A. Yes, they do. The brilliance is far less intense than brilliant round diamonds but more than the emerald cut, which is almost a similar-quality stone. Asscher diamonds show bright flashes because of their high crown, long facets, and deep pavilion. 

Q. Which Cut of a Diamond Has the Most Sparkle?

A. Round brilliant is the indisputable winner in this category. It has 58 facets that have been cut in a way to maximize the light return. With a combination of excellent brilliance and fire, these diamonds sparkle the most.

Asscher diamond huggie earrings

Image by Pragnell via Farfetch

Q. Which Diamond Cut Holds Its Value?

A. Again, a round brilliant diamond is ahead of other types in this regard. As it retains only 50% of the rough diamond and displays outstanding brilliance, it has a much higher price tag than any other cut with the same weight, color grade, and clarity. 

Q. What is the Rarest Cut of Diamonds?

A. A cut becomes rare when it's patented and only a few jewelry brands have the sole right of manufacturing and selling it. Considering these criteria, the Royal asscher cut is quite rare because of its patented status. Some other rare diamond cuts are Asprey, Eighty-Eight, Ashoka, Jubilee, and a few other cuts. 

Tags: diamond shapes, asscher cut engagement ring, asscher cut engagement rings, other diamond shapes, emerald cut diamond, length to width ratio, asscher cut, engagement, asscher cuts, stone shapes, fancy shapes